15th October 2009 | Journalism, Travel
Because time off doesn’t have to be spent lying down.
Originally appeared in the Friday Magazine in Gulf News

Skiing to the Pole | Gallery
The true geographic pole of 90 degrees north is one of the most inaccessible places on the planet. It’s where temperatures of -20 to -30 degrees C are considered balmy. The only life you’re likely to see there are seals, bearded scientists, or possibly the polar bear that’s been silently stalking you for its supper.
Unlike the South Pole it’s not even on dry land. It lies beneath a shifting sheet of ice that stretches from the shores of Russia to the glacial plains of Canada and Greenland. But now thanks to the enterprising Russian agency VICAAR the North Pole is becoming more accessible. In addition to ice breaker tours in summer they also operate the floating ice camp Barneo during the month of April. A time of year when the daylight lasts all night and the ice is still solid enough to support you.
From there it’s just a short helicopter ride to the last degree of latitude before you hit the pole. So what used to cost a small fortune – a North Pole expedition – now costs about as much as a new sensible family car, still not cheap, but then who wants to be sensible anyway? Read the rest of this entry »
15th October 2009 | Journalism
Originally appeared in the Guardian, click here to read on the Guardian website.

Faraya Mzaar
Tucked away in Lebanon, there are snowfields where the crowds are small, and the attractions – both on and off-piste – are plentiful. Frank Coles reveals skiing’s big secret.
Lawrence of Arabia, that most illustrious of British business travellers, never skied and thanks to his adventurous legacy, Bedouin, belly dancers, camels, and vast empty deserts are what most visitors have come to expect from the Middle East. You could be forgiven for thinking that an indoor slope in humid Dubai is the only wintry option available, but as the area opens up to development and reform, mountains and slopes that were once the preserve of a few savvy locals are welcoming tourists with winter holidays that have little to do with sunshine or souks.
Flying into Beirut, Lebanon’s capital, it is a surprise to see not just a sunny Mediterranean shoreline but also a glistening white mountain range towering stoically over the thin strip of land that houses the capital. Historically, Lebanon is synonymous with snow; even its name derives from the ancient Semitic word for white, “laban”, and its frosted peaks are referred to in the earliest of texts from Gilgamesh to the Old Testament.
Unlike the Norwegians who have skied for thousands of years, the Lebanese initially showed little interest in the untapped potential of their slopes. That is until the early 20th century when a few enthusiastic mountain men and some French expatriates scaled the Lebanese mountains by donkey, skied down, and then kept going back for more. Read the rest of this entry »
15th October 2009 | Journalism

Bilderberg | Stresa, Italy
This is the piece that sparked a new direction in my life. I was working with AC Milan in Italy and heard the a real life conspiracy theory was going on just up the road in Stresa, so I headed out with my camera and notepad for three days to find out if there was any basis in reality for the theories on the web: secret world government, ruling cabal, or benign private business meeting?
Call it what you like, but it exists in a high security environment where the heads of business meet with the movers and shakers of the political world. The story ended up in the Sunday papers in Europe and the photos all over the web and in various US publications.
Here’s the original story.
I’ll add a gallery to this page at earliest opportunity.
15th October 2009 | Journalism, Travel
By Frank Coles
Originally appeared in Concierge Magazine
Whether it’s something cool and classy for balmy nights on a rooftop terrace, or Savile Row styling at a fraction of the cost, Dubai maintains the long tradition of providing tailor-made garments crafted for the more discerning traveller, combining Middle Eastern value with European quality and styling.
There are a wealth of tailors and textile shops in the back alleys and Souks of Bur Dubai where you can select materials from any of the thousands on offer and take them to one of many local tailors who will construct suits, shirts, skirts or shorts in next to no time. If it is an outright bargain that you are after then this is the place to go, however if you want something of high-quality that you are going to wear more than a couple of times at prices that still feel like you are stealing, then you would be wise to look into some of Dubai’s more refined outfitters. Read the rest of this entry »
15th October 2009 | Journalism, Travel
Originally written for the Times online

Off the beaten track | stay in the rooftop rooms of the XVA Art Gallery
Butler service, gold plated interiors, spectacular skylines and chauffeur driven sun kissed luxury is what Dubai is famous for and what keeps the city’s five star hotels occupied at nearly 90% capacity all year round.
But not everybody who visits Dubai craves the upmarket package holiday or the golden pomp of a self proclaimed ‘seven-star’ hotel, nor do they desire the no star, cockroach end of the Dubai spectrum.
Already a key stopover destination, the emirate is positioning itself as an Arabian Orlando and with the ambitious Dubai World Central on its way – the world’s largest airport and challenger to Heathrow’s supremacy as the transatlantic gateway – five star hotel stock is set to grow from 40% to a whopping 70%.
There is clearly an obvious need for more genuine mid-level options.
Happily, if you are in town for business, friends, family, or just to see what all the fuss is about, there are now some less publicised but excellent home grown alternatives. Read the rest of this entry »
15th October 2009 | Journalism
By Frank Coles
Originally appeared in TNT Magazine
Every travel wish list includes at least one or two off-the-beaten-track destinations. Late last year, the results of a little known competition called the X-Prize created what will surely become a must-see destination for any future traveller: Space. Read the rest of this entry »