15th October 2009 | Journalism, Travel
Originally written for the Times online
Off the beaten track | stay in the rooftop rooms of the XVA Art Gallery
Butler service, gold plated interiors, spectacular skylines and chauffeur driven sun kissed luxury is what Dubai is famous for and what keeps the city’s five star hotels occupied at nearly 90% capacity all year round.
But not everybody who visits Dubai craves the upmarket package holiday or the golden pomp of a self proclaimed ‘seven-star’ hotel, nor do they desire the no star, cockroach end of the Dubai spectrum.
Already a key stopover destination, the emirate is positioning itself as an Arabian Orlando and with the ambitious Dubai World Central on its way – the world’s largest airport and challenger to Heathrow’s supremacy as the transatlantic gateway – five star hotel stock is set to grow from 40% to a whopping 70%.
There is clearly an obvious need for more genuine mid-level options.
Happily, if you are in town for business, friends, family, or just to see what all the fuss is about, there are now some less publicised but excellent home grown alternatives.
Forced to adapt to the relentless profiteering of Dubai’s landlords, the 85% expatriate population have found their own ways to meet the needs of the mid-range market by establishing a growing number of bed and breakfasts, guest houses, ‘pensions’ and hotel apartments around the city.
For many, these hotel chain alternatives offer genuine value for money and a far more memorable experience than the larger hotels.
Due to the vast numbers of tower blocks thrown up across the city, hotel apartments have fast become the most popular option. There are recognised and reputable brands emerging such as Coral International, +971 (4) 2233448, or London and Dubai based Minc Apartments, +971 (4) 330 0334. Minc’s luxury studios and apartments with shared swimming pools go for 350-450AED a night in Bur Dubai and Al Barsha, doubling for properties in the executive focused Dubai Marina.
Not to be left behind, four and five-star hotels also offer apartments, they start at 960AED a night in the Marriot, 1100AED in the Dusit, and 1700AED for Grosvenor House.
The best value options are usually located in Deira or Bur Dubai close to Dubai Creek and the sights, smells and deals of the gold, spice and perfume souks. These areas can be a little brash and colourful but you genuinely feel like you are in another country rather than a replica of somewhere else. A dependable option is the Golden Sands Hotel Apartments in Bur Dubai, 550AED for a one room studio, although miles from the promised sands, www.goldensandsdubai.com, +971 (4) 355 5553. See South Travels for an ever growing list of hotel apartments.
Hidden in the narrow lanes behind the Grand mosque in Bastakiya, Dubai’s historical section, is the chic XVA Gallery and Hotel. It’s a B&B quite unlike any other in the city, an art salon for regional and international art, and one of Dubai’s more authentic Middle Eastern experiences.
One of the rooftop rooms
Minimalist Arabian styled doubles look down on the XVA’s open courtyard gallery and restaurant with bedroom views out over the rooftops, towers and minarets of the neighbouring souks. The singles in the adjacent courtyard are more basic but visitors to the rooftop rooms visit time and time again. The muezzin’s early morning call to prayer is a characteristic reminder of where you are. Deluxe doubles cost 750AED a night and include wifi, breakfast and taxes, www.xvagallery.com, +971 (4) 353 5383.
You’ll also find incredible street food nearby with over 25 international cuisines on offer. Middle Eastern mezzeh staples like falafel and shwarma are plentiful, while some of the best southern and northern Indian, Thai, Iranian and Phillipino foods found outside their home countries cost pennies rather than five star pounds.
In the leafy, beachfront suburbs of Jumeirah and Umm Suqueim, where only Emiratis are permitted to own villas, there are several pleasant B&B options run by western expats in cool, high ceilinged modern Arab villas with real streets, shops, cafes and beaches nearby – a contrast to the vast highways and cookie cutter developments of suburban Dubai.
Easily the most well respected and professional set up is La Maison D’Hotes, +971 (4) 344 1838, a three villa French run operation that has its own restaurant, business centre, conference facilities, two swimming pools, airport transfers and even French and English baby sitting. Doubles start at 800AED.
Most Dubai B&Bs are well run with a distinct Big Brother house ambience, but, be careful, there are fly by night operators to be wary of.
One recent visitor staying in a self-styled B&B ‘franchise’ marketing itself as Dubai’s best kept secret, found the breakfast arrangements; wifi and laundry facilities advertised all but non-existent; air-conditioning units caught fire; and the small pool became clogged with green algae.
Thankfully operations like this are rare. The easiest way to determine the legal status of your temporary home is to ask whether hotel and municipality taxes are included in the tariff.
A more typical setup is the German expat who advertises on www.dubizzle.com and provides business travellers with a clean efficiently run double room, with en-suite, kitchen, garden and separate entrance for 380AED a night.
There are also several guest houses that offer this simple spare room formula for even less, such as Townhouse976 and the down to earth Gum Tree. You also have the plush executive guest house La Maison (not to be mistaken with La Maison D’Hotes) out near the airport and the Al Barsha Guest House behind Mall of the Emirates and Ski Dubai. www.travel-library.com and www.allbedandbreakfast.com/, prices range from 200-600AED per night.
But, if the shared house vibe just isn’t for you, then you may as well rent a whole villa. Prices vary depending on size, location and service; three bed Dubai Short Stay villas start at 12,600AED per week, while a Caravanserai serviced villa sleeps four for £1800.
For groups, couples or families a week in a villa can cost less than two to three nights in some five-stars; they can also provide concierge services, maids and on-demand limos if you just can’t say no to a touch of Arabian opulence while you are away.
